East Africa wants to curb imports of used clothes. But it’s not easy
East African nations are struggling to reduce their reliance on imported used clothing, a challenge complicated by economic realities and the industry's significant impact on local livelihoods.
Several East African countries, including Kenya and Uganda, are attempting to limit the import of used clothing (mitumba) to support their domestic fashion industries and address environmental concerns. However, the industry provides vital employment and affordable clothing options, creating resistance to stricter regulations.
Imagine you’re trying to start a cool clothing store, but everyone else is selling super cheap clothes that people got from other countries. That’s what’s happening in East Africa with used clothes. The government wants to help local designers make their own clothes, but it’s hard when people can buy used clothes for just a few dollars. They’ve tried to make it harder to buy used clothes by adding extra taxes, but this makes the used clothes more expensive, and people still buy them because they’re affordable. Some people work in this industry, fixing and selling used clothes, and they rely on it for their jobs. But some experts say this kind of work isn’t very helpful for building a strong economy. It’s a tricky problem with no easy answers!
Analysis
The influx of used clothing, often referred to as ‘mitumba’ in Swahili, poses a persistent problem for the East African Community (EAC). The region’s ambition to build a thriving fashion industry is constantly undermined by the availability of cheap, second-hand garments imported primarily from the US, Europe, and China. As the BBC reports, ‘We’re competing with second-hand clothing, but we can’t compete on price,’ according to Zia Bett, founder of Kenyan womenswear brand Zia Africa. The initial attempts to ban the trade, spearheaded by Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni, faced strong opposition and were ultimately abandoned after pressure from the US. This highlights the geopolitical complexities involved in trade disputes. Currently, Kenya is Africa’s leading importer of used clothing, receiving almost 180,000 tonnes in 2022 – a 76% increase since 2013 (UN trade data). Uganda’s situation is similar, with second-hand clothes being the most sought-after garments, followed by new and locally manufactured clothing. The recent introduction of a 30% environmental levy on used clothing, alongside existing import duties, reflects a broader trend among EAC nations to protect their domestic industries. However, this levy has been met with resistance from traders like Aaron Sekky, who argues it hinders a ‘free economy’ and threatens the livelihoods of those reliant on the trade. According to the Kampala Report, the levy is intended to mitigate environmental degradation while promoting domestic production. The debate surrounding mitumba extends beyond simple economics. Dr. Andrew Brooks of King’s College London argues that retail-based employment is ‘the most limited form of job creation’ and that the industry’s impact on the national economy is minimal. Conversely, Lisa Kibutu, a Kenya Fashion Council board member, emphasizes the importance of used clothing in providing affordable clothing options and supporting livelihoods, particularly for those in informal employment. The industry’s supply chain is extensive, encompassing importers, wholesalers, tailors who mend damaged garments, and those who sell food and drink at the markets, supporting an estimated 4.9 million people across East Africa. The Observatory of Economic Complexity data shows that Kenya’s import of used clothing has increased by 76% since 2013.
Key points
- East African nations are struggling to reduce their reliance on imported used clothing (mitumba).
- The trade provides vital employment for an estimated 4.9 million people across East Africa.
- Attempts to ban the trade have been met with resistance due to economic and social factors.
- A 30% environmental levy has been introduced in Uganda to promote domestic production.
- The debate highlights the complexities of balancing trade, environmental protection, and livelihoods.
